Patek Philippe Exhibition Collection 2021

Last week David Rosas hosted the 2021 Patek Philippe Exhibition Collection in our Boavista (Porto) showroom.

The Patek Philippe 2021 Exhibition Collection features a selection of the most treasured ladies’ and men’s timepieces from the classic collection, alongside refined reinterpretations and brand-new watches revealed this year, including the Calatrava 6119G-001 “Clous de Paris” and 4997/200G-001 or the perpetual calendar 5236P-001.

We are happy to share some pictures and notes on these magnificent watches.

Calatrava 6119G-001

A new Calatrava with the famous “Clous de Paris” bezel, and new hand wound movement joins the collection this year. All an icon of the haute horlogerie, the Calatrava is known as the finest form of dress watch: present, but never obtrusive. Perfectly worn with a suit, yet pretty much suitable to any outfit.

Now the Ref. 6119 is in a new size of 39 mm case diameter, available also in a rose gold case. The white-gold version with a charcoal grey dial (6119G) and the rose-gold version with a silvery grained dial (6119R).

While the other 39 mm Calatrava watches use an automatic movement, powering this latest model is the calibre 30-255 with manual winding and stop-seconds.

The larger calibre diameter creates space for two barrels that are connected in parallel and run synchronously, thus increasing the power reserve from 44 to 65 hours.

Calatrava 5227J-001

With its pure lines, the 5227J is one of the brand greatest classics. Supremely elegant, it charms each new generation of watch lovers by its timeless understated perfection.

Equipped with the self-winding mechanical movement Caliber 324 S C, with date in an aperture and center sweep second hand, pairing a yellow gold case with an ivory lacquered dial.

Timeless elegance.

Calatrava 5196J-001

Absolutely nothing superfluous can be found on this reference 5196 that bears the same final digits as the original Calatrava, the reference 96 from 1932. This watch borrows its precursor’s dauphine hands, seconds subdial, faceted indices and wreath of tiny dots forming the minute circle.

Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber 215 PS.

Dial: silvery opaline with gold applied hour markers.

Yellow Gold. Solid case back. Water-resistant to 30m. Case diameter: 37 mm. Height: 7.68 mm.

Calatrava 4997/200G-001

The Ladies' Calatrava with its guilloched lacquered dial features a slightly larger diameter (35mm) and a self-winding movement replacing the previous manually wound caliber. The bezel is lit up by 76 round-cut internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds. This new model comes with a brushed calfskin strap featuring a satinated finish in a color matching that of the dial.

Complications Annual calendar 4947G-010

This ladies Annual Calendar in white gold has been endowed with a silvery dial as well as a double vertical and horizontal satin finish reminiscent of wild shantung silk. This adds a touch of very feminine finesse to the patented full calendar that only needs to be corrected once a year.

Self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU with day and month by hands. Date in an aperture and Moon phases.

A bezel set with 141 diamonds (~1.28 ct) and crown set with 14 diamonds (~0.06 ct).

Complications Annual calendar 5396G-011

There is an undeniable appeal to an annual calendar, a certain patina that seems well-suited to a dressy watch with an old-school charm.

The Patek Philippe 5396 celebrates the 20th anniversary of Patek’s annual calendar complication, which was the world’s first and was originally seen on their reference 5035 in 1996. Since then, the annual calendar has become one of the brand’s best-selling complications.

Powered by Patek’s 324 S QA LU 24H/303 movement, offers hours, minutes, seconds, a numeric date, moon phase, day, month, a 24-hour display and offers a max autonomy of 45 hours.

Complications Chronograph 5172G-001

The 5172G is a white gold, manual-winding chronograph with a bright blue dial and luminous Arabic numerals. It has a vintage vibe with the round chronograph buttons, bold luminous Arabic numerals, syringe hands, a calfskin strap, all are decidedly sportier or more vintage-feeling than what you'd find on its predecessors.

A chronograph of classic architecture for men, with a new white gold case, and its subtle vintage allure is underscored by a sapphire-crystal “box” glass.

Mechanical manually wound movement. Caliber CH 29‑535 PS. Small seconds. Tachymeter scale.

White gold. Sapphire-crystal case back. Water-resistant to 30m. Diameter: 41 mm. Height: 11.45 mm.

Complications Chronograph World Time 5930G-010

The Reference 5930 is the first World Time watch in the current Patek Philippe collection that has been endowed with a chronograph. Inspired by a unique piece that dates back to 1940, it incorporates a new self-winding movement developed by the manufacture which pairs the two functions in an innovative way. The blue dial is decorated with a circular guilloché pattern crafted by hand.

Self-winding mechanical movement. Caliber CH 28‑520 HU.

White gold. Sapphire-crystal case back. Water-resistant to 30m. Case diameter: 39.5 mm. Height: 12.86 mm.

Complications Annual calendar 5205G-013

Crafted in white gold with an elegant sunburst dial in two tones of blue shading to black in this ref. 5205 for a distinctive modern look.

Day, date and month are displayed in an easy-to-read fashion across the top half of the dial via three distinct apertures.

The time is shown centrally via three hands with luminous coating, whilst a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock houses a 24-hour indicator and the moon-phase display.

Perfect for dressing up or down, this stylish model has already proven to be a hit with the younger generation of watch aficionados.

Self-winding mechanical movement. Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206. Day, date and month in apertures. 24-hour indication. Sweep seconds hand.

Blue sunburst, black gradated, gold applied hour markers.

White Gold. Sapphire-crystal case back. Water-resistant to 30m. Diameter: 40 mm. Height: 11.36 mm.

Complications Annual calendar, Flyback Chronograph 5905P-001

The 5905P has a dial of concentric circles, one outlines the graduated minute scale at the perimeter of the dial and the second circumscribes the applied hour markers. Dauphine hands show three facets with the center being super-lumed for night vision.

Additionally, the highly-polished case of this model comes in 42 mm which is a take on a sportier, more modern look reinforced by the flat pushers.

Self-winding mechanical movement. Caliber CH 28‑520 QA 24H. Day, date, month, day/night indication in apertures.

Blue sunburst dial, gold applied hour markers and numerals.

Platinum case. Sapphire-crystal case back. Water-resistant to 30m. Case diameter: 42 mm. Height: 14.03 mm.

Grand Complications
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270J-001

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has become a great tradition in the world of watches. And that's what we have with the ref. 5270J in classic warm yellow gold matched to a brown alligator strap.

This reference was a landmark debut for Patek Philippe when it was initially announced in white gold. It marked the first time that Patek had made a perpetual calendar chronograph with a fully in-house caliber.

A yellow-gold version with silvery opaline dial does feel like an essential part of this reference's story, an elegant outfit for this timeless watch.

Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q. Chronograph. Central chronograph hand. Instantaneous 30-minute counter. Perpetual Calendar. Day, month, leap year and day/night display in apertures. Date by hand. Seconds subdial.

Silvery opaline, gold applied hour markers. Tachymeter scale.

Yellow gold. Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back. Water-resistant to 30m. Diameter: 41 mm. Height: 12.4 mm.

Grand Complications
In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P-001

The new Ref. 5236P-001 In-Line Perpetual Calendar comes in a 41.3mm platinum case, with a new movement and the complete in-line display of the date, which is a first for Patek in a wristwatch.

So as to combine originality, legibility and reliability, the watch design engineers have developed the new self-winding movement 31-260 PS QL with an additional in-line display module, for which three patent applications have been filed. This highly sophisticated new caliber is housed in an elegant platinum case framing a vertical satin-finished blue dial with a black-gradient rim.

A timepiece that combines innovation, beauty, and history in a uniquely Patek Philippe fashion.

Self-winding mechanical movement. Caliber 31‑260 PS QL. In-line perpetual calendar. Day, date, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures. Small seconds.

Water-resistant to 30m. Diameter: 41.3mm. Height: 11.07mm.

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Patek Philippe Chronographs

Feb 19, 2024 David Rosas

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